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Dolce & Gabbana is an Italian luxury fashion house founded by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in Legnano in 1985.

In 1980, they met in Milan and collaborated on a collection for the same fashion house. They founded a designer consulting studio in 1982, which grew to become “Dolce & Gabbana” over time. In 1985, they debuted their first women’s collection in Milan, where their store would open a year later.

They began designing underwear and swimming costumes in 1989, after launching a leotard line in 1988. In 1990, Dolce & Gabbana began exporting their products to Japan and other countries, including the United States, where they opened their own showroom. They debuted their first perfume, Dolce & Gabbana, in 1992, the same year they debuted their men’s collection. For their fragrance Dolce & Gabbana Parfum, they won the Woolmark award in 1991 and the Perfume’s Academy “Most Feminine Flavor of the Year” in 1993. The company’s revenues were around US$500 million by the end of the 1990s, and they reached $633 million in 2003. Their revenue had grown to ,600 million by 2005.

The design duo’s first collection was shown in Milan Fashion Week in October 1985 alongside five other up-and-coming Italian labels. They couldn’t afford to hire models or provide them with accessories, so they enlisted the help of their friends. The models (their friends) simply matched their personal items to the outfits. As a stage curtain, they used a bed sheet Dolce had brought from home.

Due to the use of local women as models on the runway, the pair dubbed their first collection Real Women. Gabbana’s first collection’s sales were so poor that they decided to cancel the fabric order they’d placed for their second collection. When the two went to visit Dolce’s family in Sicily over Christmas,

Dolce’s family offered to help cover their expenses, and the fabric company did not receive the cancellation notice in time, so the fabric was ready for them back in Milan when they returned. In 1986, they released their next collection and opened their first store. In a 1992 interview, Michael Gross said of their third album, “Only a few Italian fashion editors were aware of their existence. Behind a shaky screen, their few models changed. Transformation was the name of their T-shirt cotton and elastic-silk collection.” The clothing in this collection came with instructions for seven different ways to wear each piece in an outfit, as the wearer could alter the clothing’s form with Velcro and snaps.

Their fourth collection was the first to make an impression on the Italian fashion scene. Dolce drew on his Sicilian roots for this collection. The collection’s ad campaign was shot in Sicily by photographer Ferdinando Scianna and featured Dutch model Marpessa Hennink in black-and-white images inspired by 1940s Italian cinema. In their fifth collection, they continued to draw inspiration from Italian cinema, specifically filmmaker Luchino Visconti’s film The Leopard.

The fashion press dubbed one of their fourth collection’s pieces “The Sicilian Dress,” and author Hal Rubenstein named it one of the 100 most important dresses ever designed. It is regarded as the brand’s most representative piece from this time period. In 2012, Rubenstein wrote about the piece, saying, “Dolce & Gabbana’s sartorial touchstone is the Sicilian dress, which is the essence of the brand. The dress is inspired by a slip”but it’s a slip worn by Anna Magnani, and it’s a silhouette worn by Anita Ekberg, Sophia Loren, and others. The neckline runs straight across but gets waylaid at least twice, once on each side to caress each breast and once in the middle to meet an uplifting tuck that gives a gentle push up. The slip doesn’t just fall down; it comes in at the waist to hold the figure firmly but not too tightly, then widens to emphasize the hips before falling with a slight taper at the knees to ensure that the wearer’s hips sway when walking.”

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