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A picture frame is a decorative and protective border around an image, such as a painting or photograph. It makes exhibiting the work safer and easier, because it distinguishes the image from its surrounds while also artistically blending it in.
Wooden picture frames have long been popular because they give strength, can be moulded into a wide range of shapes, and may be treated with a number of surface treatments. Metals such as silver, bronze, and aluminum, as well as rigid polymers such as polystyrene, are examples of other materials. Any color or texture can be used on the frame surface.
Although many alternative surfaces are available in most frame companies, both real gilding and fake gold remain popular. Extensive molding on certain picture frames may allude to the subject matter. Over a wood basis, intricate designs are frequently made of molded, then gilded plaster. Picture frame mouldings are available in a broad range of profiles, most of which are in the shape of a L with an upward “lip” and a horizontal rabbet.
The rabbet serves as a shelf to support the frame glazing (if any), some form of spacer or mat/matte to keep the item secure behind the inner surface of the glazing, the object itself, and backing boards to protect the piece from physical damage and pollution. The lip rises a corresponding distance from the rabbet’s edge. It holds things in place in the frame and may be used to either set off or show the image.
A protective “glazing” of picture framing glass or acrylic sheet, such as Acrylite or Plexiglas, may be present in the picture frame. No glazing may be utilized if the art in the frame is deemed disposable or if the display atmosphere is well regulated. Significant advancements in the fabrication of picture glazings have been achieved since the 1980s, resulting in a far greater choice of alternatives in both glass and acrylic goods.
When deciding which to use, consider the following aspects of each object: size, media utilized, media condition, perceived worth of the piece, and planned usage of the object, such as lengthy display periods or travel. It’s a good idea to seek advice from an expert art framer or conservator to assist you make the best decision. Anti-reflective coatings are now available on both picture frame glass and acrylic sheet, making the glazing nearly transparent in normal lighting circumstances.
A UV filter should be used to exclude practically all ultraviolet light from penetrating the glass, save for photographs of only brief interest. The photocatalytic destruction of organic components in the image is slowed by this filter. Anti-static qualities are present in both glass and acrylic glazings. For items containing friable or deteriorated media, which would be dragged off the object and onto the glazing by static electric forces, this option is required.
Except for the most disposable or temporary displays, the glazing must be kept off the picture’s surface to prevent the object from adhering to the underside of the glazing, developing irreversible color changes due to compression of the media, and/or developing mold growths that would not otherwise occur.
A mat, “spacers” tucked below the glazing and concealed from view by the lip of the moulding, shadowboxing, sandwiching the glazing between two mouldings, and other similar methods are used to achieve this separation. It’s also vital to relieve the glazing in order to avoid smudging loose media like charcoal or pastel.
Between the frame and the image, a passe-partout (or mat) can be used. The passe-partout has two functions: first, it keeps the picture from hitting the glass, and second, it frames the image and improves its aesthetic attractiveness.
The back of the framed artwork is likewise treated differently. To defend against physical impacts and the intrusion of dirt, insects, dampness, and contaminants, all frame packages should include some form of rigid, solid board.
The backboard(s) should be constructed of superior archival-quality material, such as matboard, except for temporary exhibitions of throwaway goods. Corrugated boards of archival grade, both paper and plastic, are occasionally used, as are foam-core boards labeled as archival quality. The assistance of a professional is invaluable in many aspects of proper framing.
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